Shellie's Wellies: The call of the wild
- Dec 14, 2020
- 3 min read
Updated: Jul 23
When the urge to escape into the wild hits but we want to stay close to Oban, we head for a pocket of woodland that feels made for forest bathing. This time, it was my first visit to Fearnoch Forest, a place I’d driven past for years without ever stopping. The turnoff on the A85 is easy to miss, but the forest behind it is worth slowing down for.
IFearnoch means the Man’s Hill in Gaelic. At the trailhead, clear signage explains two walking routes. Ceum nan Seangan, the Ants’ Steps, is a short 1.5‑mile loop with a view over Ben Cruachan. The longer trail, Tri Drochaiden, the Three Bad Aidens, stretches 2.5 miles and follows two rivers. We decided to chase the view first, then circle back for the water.
The path winds through mixed woodland, part of which has been restored to native trees. We didn’t get far before we wandered off into a glade for lunch. From the edge of a valley, snow‑topped Ben Cruachan rose in front of us, Argyll’s highest peak. We spread out a blanket, tucked into sandwiches and hot chocolate and shared the moment with a herd of Highland cows and a cheeky pheasant picking its way across the valley floor.
Fearnoch means the Man's Hill in Gaelic.
ack on the trail, the route shifted between woodland path and forest road. We joined the longer loop, crossed the River Luachraggan and followed the edge of the forest beside Eas na Laraiche Moire, the Waterfall of the Larches. Picnic tables dotted the way, perfect for another round of hot chocolate before splashing around in the river in our wellies.
The final stretch was an easy stroll back to the car park, where one last scramble up to the trailhead picnic table gave us another sweeping view of the Hollow Mountain. We saw only a handful of people along the way. A couple of dog walkers, two cyclists and a horse rider, but most of the time the forest felt like ours alone.
I’m a forest baby at heart. Years with the US Forest Service taught me that time in the woods resets my brain. It’s instant calm. I’m lucky to have so many woodland escapes nearby thanks to Forestry and Land Scotland, who maintain a fantastic network of trails for all abilities. Within forty miles of my front door there are more walks than I’ve managed in seven years, and every one has been well marked and thoughtfully maintained.
Fearnoch may not be as dramatic as Glen Orchy or Glasdrum, but it has everything I love in a walk. Woodland groves, wide views, bubbling streams and waterfalls, the kind of place where woodland elves and bridge trolls would feel right at home.
Four out of five wellies from me.
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